Where (and How) to Buy Your Tools

Before we talk about where to buy tools, it’s worth talking about how to think about them.

I have worked with tools for literally thousands of hours over my lifetime. As a frugal person, I often bought the cheapest option that looked like it would get the job done, telling myself I was being practical. I wasn’t. Over time I learned that a poor-quality tool is never worth the price — even if it’s free.

An underpowered drill doesn’t just drill slowly; it makes you question whether you’re doing something wrong. A blade that won’t hold an edge doesn’t just cut poorly; it tears fibers, ruins joinery, and leaves you sanding longer than you should. A square that isn’t square quietly sabotages every measurement that follows. A poor tool can turn what is supposed to be an enjoyable and rewarding experience into a frustrating one.

Quality tools are non-negotiable. But they are most often also affordable. Buy tools only when you have a specific need for them…and when you do, buy the best tool you can reasonably afford.

That out of the way, here is where you can find your tools in the US, but the same principles will likely apply elsewhere.

The Tools You’ll Reach For First

Basic hand tools — hammers, screwdrivers, pliers, clamps — are the simplest category. You can find perfectly serviceable versions at Home Depot, Lowe’s, Harbor Freight, or online. Prices are comparable, but I prefer being able to touch and feel the tools in brick-and-mortar stores before I buy.

What matters most here is avoiding the very bottom tier. Most retailers offer three quality levels: good, better, and best. I’ve learned to avoid the “good”, anchor on the “better” an only buy “best” when I really know why.

Buying combo sets can also make sense early on. Sets are cheaper than buying tools individually and come with compact storage — helpful if your workshop space is limited.

Woodworking Hand Tools: Where Quality Matters More

When you move into traditional woodworking hand tools — hand saws, chisels, hand planes — quality becomes much more important.

With cutting tools, everything comes down to the quality of the steel. The edge must be hard enough to hold sharpness and soft enough to be sharpened repeatedly. Unlike disposable blades, chisels and plane irons are meant to be maintained for decades. You don’t throw them away; you learn to sharpen them. Working with a dull edge can be quite frustrating. It requires more force, gives you less control, and makes you question your technique.

The benchmarks for steel quality are tools from Japan, Sheffield or Switzerland, but you don’t need these to begin. You can buy affordable, quality tools and sharpening plates on Amazon. I recommend the Razor Ryoba pull saw and Narex chisels (what I use). The US also has specialty woodworking stores like Rockler and Woodcraft that have an excellent selection of tools. Go to their websites to understand the breadth of tools available.

Hand planes are a special case. Many reasonably priced modern planes can be disappointing. Vintage Stanley planes, however, are excellent. Buying one used and restoring the edge can give you a tool that outperforms many new models. Facebook Marketplace and eBay have plenty.

Another caution is on measuring tools. You just need a few (measuring tape, square), but they are also critical to the success of any project. Cheap measuring tools are silent sabotagers. You may be surprised to know that if you measure an item using multiple cheap measuring tapes or scales, they will not give you the same reading. The same goes for squares that are not exactly 90 degrees. Stay away from the cheapest options and you will be fine.

Power Tools: Practical Choices

Portable power tools introduce another decision: corded or cordless.

Corded tools are less expensive and more powerful for the price. Cordless tools offer convenience and mobility but require commitment to a single battery platform, so you can use your batteries across multiple tools, enjoy greater runtime, and avoid having multiple chargers to deal with.

If you’re starting out, a cordless drill makes sense. It’s versatile and convenient. For everything else (sanders, routers, jigsaws, etc.) corded versions are a better choice.

If you do go cordless, stick with a widely supported national brand platform (available in big box stores or online) so you’re not locked into a limited ecosystem. The battery is often more important than the tool itself so don’t go cheap on this one. Stay away from used batteries – you will not know how much life is left in them. Also beware of rampant counterfeits online that do not perform. Buy your batteries from a reputable store or directly from the brand’s website or Amazon store. I use DeWalt 20V for all my larger tools and Bosch 12V for a few small/ compact ones. Home Depot carries the Ryobi family that is also good with a very broad range of tools.

For corded tools, even brands with modest reputations can be perfectly adequate for hobby use. In the US, I would start at Harbor Freight (yes, I said it you snob!). Their Bauer brand is sufficient for most applications.

The Hidden Differentiator: Power Tool Accessories

The most important part of a power tool is the bit that touches the material. This includes drill bits, saw blades, sanding discs and screwdriver bits. Similar to hand planes and chisels, the quality of the material really matters.

Cheap drill bits stall and overheat. Inexpensive screwdriver bits damage screws. Low-quality sanding discs clog quickly and waste time. Upgrading blades and bits often makes a more dramatic difference than upgrading the tool itself. The improvement in cut quality and overall experience is immediate.

It’s tempting to buy giant multi-piece drill bit sets because they look like a bargain. In practice, a smaller, higher-quality set covering the sizes you actually use will serve you better and last longer.

I use Bosch drill and driver bits, Freud saw blades and Diablo sanding pads. If these brands are not available where you live, just stay away from the bottom shelf.

The Big Machines

Large stationary tools — miter saws, bandsaws, planers, lathes — are where costs can escalate quickly into the thousands of dollars. In this category, brand and build quality matter significantly. Lower-cost machines frequently suffer from tables that aren’t flat, fences that won’t stay aligned, or motors that struggle under load.

The most cost-effective solution is buying used, reputable brands. Many older machines were built with heavier iron castings and more durable components than modern budget models. A well-made machine from decades past, fitted with a new high-quality blade, can outperform a brand-new bargain version.

This approach requires patience and a bit of searching, but the value difference can be dramatic. For example, I bought my Delta bandsaw and Dunlap lathe on Facebook Marketplace for just $100 each - less than 10% the cost of buying new.

Side Note: Woodworking was a very common hobby in the US several decades ago, when cheap, poor quality tools were less common. This generation of makers is now getting older, downsizing and getting rid of their tools. While this is sad, it is also an opportunity for the next generation of makers to buy quality tools at a low price and keep them doing what they were built to do. I remember going to pick up my used Dunlap lathe from an older gentleman who spent his career as a machinist. He expressed such happiness in knowing that his precious tool was going to get a second life with someone who was passionate about the craft.

Leatherworking: A Simpler Story

Leatherworking, by contrast, is refreshingly simple to start. You just need a few basic tools. Needles, a sharp rotary cutter or craft knife, a hole punch, and thread are enough to produce beautiful work.

Most tools in this category are affordable and replaceable. Needles are needles. Most rotary cutters or craft knives are fine (I love Olfa) and most hole punches will do the job. You can find these tools on Amazon but I encourage you to visit a leather specialty store or site like Tandy Leather or Weaver Leather to understand the incredible breadth of special purpose tools available.

The one area worth investing in is thread. High-quality waxed, braided thread dramatically improves both the stitching experience and the finished appearance. Inferior threads (like the multi-color packs online) fray and twist, undermining otherwise careful craftsmanship. I use German-made Ritza Tiger thread – its not cheap, but a little goes a long way.

Industrial leather sewing machines are an entirely different category — expensive and specialized. If you ever move in that direction, I would recommend going down the second-hand route first as 30 year old machines are exceptionally well built. My industrial leather sewing machine is the most expensive tool I own by a wide margin (thousands of $$$). I bought it new from Tandy Leather after trying and failing to find an affordable used Singer or Juki online.

Over Time, Not Overnight

Here is an un-varnished view of my woodshop in all its messy glory. Not Instagram-worthy but I am proud of the work I do in it. While this might seem like a lot of tools, they were accumulated slowly and intentionally over almost 20 years without breaking the bank.

Look out for other posts on what you need to get started, even if you want to just start small.

Happy making!