Leatherworking: What you Actually Need

Leatherworking has one of the lowest barriers to entry of any craft. You don’t need a workshop, specialized machines, or years of training. With a handful of tools and a bit of practice, you can make simple, functional items—wallets, phone sleeves, small bags—within a few hours of learning the basics. Your dining table works perfectly as a workspace, and aside from a bit of tapping for hole punching, the whole process is surprisingly quiet. If you live in an apartment with cranky neighbors, you’ll be just fine.

The Basic Workflow

Hand‑stitched leather projects follow a simple sequence of steps.

Cutting the leather

Skiving to thin the material around joints

Gluing pieces together

Pre‑punching stitching holes (you cannot push a needle through leather)

Stitching using two needles and thread — commonly called saddle stitching

Finishing the edges to smooth and polish them

That’s really all there is to it.

Starter Tool Kit (Under $100)

This is the minimal set of tools you need to make simple wallets, bags, and other small goods.

A graduated self‑healing cutting mat is your primary work surface. It protects your table, gives you accurate layout lines, and helps keep assemblies square. I use a 2×3 ft mat for larger projects, but smaller ones (around 1×1.5 ft) work perfectly for most beginners.

Pair this with a steel ruler at least as long as the mat’s longest side. This lets you index against the mat’s graduations for accurate alignment.

For cutting, a rotary cutter is ideal for long straight lines using the ruler as a guide. For curves, use scissors for soft leathers or a craft knife for stiffer material. A dedicated leatherworking knife is also invaluable for general cutting and skiving.

To create stitching holes, use pre‑spaced prong punches and a hammer. These typically come as a set: a 6‑prong punch for long straight runs and a 2‑prong punch for curves. I much prefer the hollow‑point versions that remove a small plug of leather rather than the solid ones that simply force their way through and risk tearing the material.

For larger holes—clasps, buttons, etc.—use a rotary hole punch (the same type used for belts). It may be tempting to use this for creating the stitching holes, but don’t. You’ll never get the uniform spacing needed for clean, professional‑looking stitches.

Leather is glued using rubber cement, which usually comes with a brush built into the lid.

For stitching, you’ll need hand‑sewing thread (I use 0.6 mm) and a pair of blunt‑point saddler’s harness needles. Unlike fabric sewing, leather stitching requires a blunt needle so you don’t pierce the thread already in the hole. If you can’t find these, you can blunt a heavy fabric needle on sandpaper. Add a thimble, small pliers for stubborn pulls, and a simple awl to widen or align holes.

And if you’re wondering about the coins in the picture—they’re my go‑to tools for cutting perfect corner radii. Just hold one down and run your knife along the edge.

Advanced Tool Kit (To Make Your Life Easier and Expand Your Range)

As you can see, leatherworking doesn’t require much equipment. But a few thoughtful upgrades can dramatically improve your workflow.

One of the biggest challenges in hand stitching is simply holding the workpiece. You need both hands free for saddle stitching. I’ve tried everything—including holding the piece between my feet, which is common among Indian cobblers. A sewing pony is an inexpensive upgrade that makes a huge difference. It sits between your thighs or clamps to a table and holds your work at the perfect height. I made this one, but they are readily available online.

To finish edges, start with an edge beveller to round them over. Then apply gum tragacanth and burnish with an edge slicker. The friction heats the gum, which polymerizes into a smooth, shiny finish.

Hole and corner punch sets come in endless shapes and sizes for buckles, clasps, and decorative details. Even if you don’t know what you’ll use them for yet, they always come in handy. End cutters are designed specifically for the tips of belts and straps.

Round out your kit with a skiving blade, a rivet‑setting punch set for hardware installation, and a metal divider to score clean, parallel stitch lines along your edges.

Upgrading to Machines

For larger projects, stitching becomes the most time‑consuming part of the process. Hand stitching is still superior for certain applications—like the tool bag pictured above, where the joints were too complex for a machine to handle cleanly. But for things like upholstery or large panels where the stitches will be hidden inside a folded seam, hand stitching becomes impractical.

This is where industrial leather sewing machines come in.

Typical “heavy‑duty” fabric machines won’t cut it. Their motors lack the torque, and their needles will snap on dense leather. Leather machines are built differently: they can handle up to half an inch of material and are shaped to maneuver bulky, rigid workpieces.

They are, however, expensive. My machine (pictured below) is by far the most expensive tool I own. Only go down this path once you’re fully committed to the craft.

A Note on Types of Leather

There is a dizzying variety of leathers out there, and depending on where you buy them, you may not even know what you’re looking at. I won’t pretend to be an expert in tanning processes, but here are the basics you actually need to know.

Leather falls into two broad categories:

Vegetable‑tanned (veg‑tan) — stiffer, used for belts and structured goods

Chrome‑tanned — softer, used for jackets and fashion accessories

Veg‑tan can be purchased undyed (a pinkish color) or in simple browns. Chrome‑tan comes in a huge range of colors and textures. Veg‑tan will develop a beautiful patina over time; chrome‑tan will largely maintain its original, slightly “plastic‑y” finish.

For beginners, I recommend thinner veg‑tan (around 5 oz or 2 mm). It holds its shape well and is forgiving while stitching. Chrome‑tan is often too soft for hand-stitching and will fight you while you’re learning.

Below is a picture of the scraps in my workshop from years of leatherworking —nearly all veg‑tan from 3 oz to 9 oz thickness. Just do a search for "leather weights and uses" to learn more.

Projects to Start With

Hand stitching alone opens up a wide range of beginner‑friendly projects. Each one teaches a new skill and gives you a chance to experiment with different leather types. Here are some ideas-

Wallet

Belt

Simple crossbody bag

Pen case

Initialed bag tag

Wristband

If you need more inspiration or simple plans, Pinterest is a great place to start.

Look out for other posts on where to buy your tools.

Happy making!